Creativity, spirit and a down-to-earth approach reflect the spirit of Milano Unica as a point of reference for Made in Italy high-end textiles and accessories sector.
Which is why the trends presentation of Milano Unica is most awaited in the industry precisely because of its ability to highlight new creative paths for tomorrow’s fashion.
MU’s Trend Project has transformed and has become more digital with a dedicated website with creative suggestions developed by the Milano Unica Style Committee, headed by Artistic Director Stefano Fadda. The theme for the next season revolves around Monsters & Perfumes. The new site is accessible at this Link
Monsters and Perfumes is the new trend narrative filled with visual ideas and olfactory suggestions for Fall-Winter 2021/2022 trends. The theme is a metaphorical diversion that focuses on the search for beauty and for workmanship in harmony with ecology and sustainability, for ethical and responsible production. It talks about fantastic creatures conceived from recycling various materials such as fabrics, nets, accessories, cork, hooks, rubber and nylon that look vaguely human although out of scale.
The theme unfolds into three trend stories that correspond to creatures and corresponding fragrances.
KS#1320 and the technical comfort of the “Perfume of Leisure”
CZ#5381 and the sophisticated and snobby style with its “Perfume of Power”
FX#8568 and the more romantic aesthetics of the “Perfume of the Soul”.
KS#1320 represents the aesthetics of leisure, expressing the unique scent of joy and freedom.
The style is natural and technical at the same time: fabrics and accessories are characterised by comfort and functionality.
The fabrics are irregular, frayed, overlapping and reminiscent of lake vegetation, the nets take inspiration from the reed bed structures, while the madras and checks have swampy hues and the camouflages recall the metallic sediments on the banks of the rivers. Full-bodied, felts and cloths enriched with applications of ropes and lichen embroidery; macro structures woven with inlaid worked tapes, over bouclé on which even larger bouclé are woven for a super soft “musky” effect. Rustic fibres meet wool, cashmere and mohair, creating mats with irregular textures.
The accessories are mainly bulky, development of applications are rubberized, needled flocked, coupled, printed with swelling inks. Oversize knit weaves, nets embroidered in wool yarns, wool coupled with polyurethane threads, oversized embroideries on grids. The colours see the green diluted in different shades: the willow green , the moss green and the marsh green are combined with the earthy shades of rust orange and brick red , giving life to a muddy imaginary. Water and land wonders hidden by mottled with shades of ‘tone metallic blue , the cobalt blue and dark blue .
CZ#5381 shows a rich and minimalist style, slightly more inclined to excesses, its nonchalance smells of power, the outcome of confidence acquired over time.
Its aesthetic is super bourgeois, sophisticated and imposing. It is the concept of infinite, pure, eternal elegance and sartorial perfection, almost as if it were haute couture.
The fabrics draw inspiration from ancient textures, rich, precious and sophisticated, but forgotten and renew them by intersecting satin ribbons on fine men’s jacquards, houndstooth with elaborate couture-weaving and draping shiny threads with micro designs. The fibres are soft, soft and pasty, both in the transparent and light fabrics, in the shades of the archive and in the important weights with monochromatic designs. We find classic motifs such as tattersall, vichy, plaid, gingham used, normally in shirts, also offered in outerwear weights. Luster: satin, taffeta, velvets are united and vibrate through the combinations of the different textures.
The accessories speak of timeless elegance with affected tapes, moiré ribbons and grosgrain galloons with pearls applications. Moirè also inspires salps, belts and labels. Micro studs chalks decorate the applications. Minimalist geometric designs, also available in macro buttons. The closures are exasperated in size, the over proposals have vintage aspects, but are made of recycled plastic materials. We find tapes, zips, closures and buttons with leather effect treatments. The colours describe the attitude with refined charm. Full-bodied shades emerge in the natural tones of ivory cream and chocolate brown, classic nuances such as goose beak yellow , fanè beige and blush pink as well as pastel tones of suede yellow , pearl gray and vintage green .
FX#8568 is made up of overlapping materials to shield our soul and, although apparently rigid, it is actually soft with unusual etherealness; its oversize appearance hides the need to protect the soul that smells of purity, candour, joy and life.
Volumes, layering and geometries make up a unique, imposing, almost armoured style that is soft and delicate to the touch.
The fabrics have sinuous and curled structures, jacquards decorated with spiritual motifs, impalpable lightness with wrinkled aspects, cottons with papery hands and woolly yarns with rough constructions. In the shirts we find fluid prints superimposed on ethereal designs, patches and pictorial spots and interventions in fancy yarns on wavy bases. Playful spirit of macro dimensions with origami pleats, raised seams, interweaving of tubulars, macro padding and spreading on large grids. Bright micro yarns on the worked organza, interventions in faded cords on double-sided tubular nets and embroidery with floating threads for the micro jacquard with windows.
Accessories, like fabrics, seem to emerge from an almost childish fantasy universe, where the dimensions are exaggerated, and the decorations do not follow the usual stylistic rules. The applications play with dimensions and designs: macro embossed, embossed pleats on the bias, needle punches with geometric or animal motifs, macro rouches in felted wool, 3D rouches with macro studs, collage of bubbles on felt bases, patchwork and macro groumette chains with poetic shades. The labels are protective, including swellings, offered in recycled tyvek and nylon. The Colours portfolio is fresh, light and optimistic. The play of colours provides for contrasts between neutral and intimate shades such as metallic silver , platinum gray and graphite gray and sparkling colours such as: witch hazel yellow , flamingo pink and heliotropic violet . The aim of this proposal is to bring ironic and unusual combinations of natural materials and treatments. The indigo and blue sodalite complete folder suggesting layered interventions in colour.
Image & Video Credits: Milano Unica, Italy